Did it make the area behind the glove box cool enough to mount an aux fuse box and wires in that area? I don’t want to burn everything up...Which will happen if I mount it there now... I might have to switch to a new exhaust system so I can utilize that area...
Question for people that eliminated the stock exhaust system..
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The stock muffler is a major heater as it has odd baffling and a small secondary catalytic converter. In the stock system the primary cat in the lead pipe is also a major source of heat. Using an IR temp meter you can check the actual temps when running. Aftermarket systems do run cooler but a lot still depends on how close to the firewall the pipe or muffler runs. I've got headers with an Alpha Variable that are quite a bit cooler and less obtrusive to the firewall than the stock system. I also have extra layer of insulation on firewall with all holes sealed into glovebox and also the OEM muffler shield that comes with the shroud kit. I've got a few things wired in the glove box with no issue.
Another way to lower temp on stock muffler is to have it ceramic coated. -
I would like to use the same area behind the glove box on the passenger side as where our fuse box is mounted on the driver side. It’s pretty much a wasted area because of the heat the pot bellied stove as someone else referred to it puts out....LOL
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On our bike, we did the following
First we added the DEI heat shielding - works well
Second we went with the Welter rear exhaust which also helpedOur issue was cabin heat on the passenger side. Not specifically trying to solve the question you asked
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This is with headers and gen1 exhaust put on. If I put the fuse box towards the outside of the slingshot I'm sure heat wouldn't be an issue.
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Im pointing to where I would put a fuse box on mine. The exhaust is down and to the right in that pic. It's actually so low and down that you can't even see it in the pic. I will get a measurement.
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As you can see a fuse box would be almost a foot away from my exhaust. I'm sure it would not be an issue. I guess it depends on the exhaust.
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As you can see a fuse box would be almost a foot away from my exhaust. I'm sure it would not be an issue. I guess it depends on the exhaust.
Put it on the drivers side about the same place on the raised flat spot. Below the factory box
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That is true you can put another fuse box over there. You have room to do it.
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Also it eliminated all of my passenger side heat. And I put the whole floor board kit from cycle springs which helped with the road, engine noise and it cut the heat even more.
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This might be another option, placing it behind this new shield.
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It’s actually a big space to be wasting. I’m adding two fuse boxes. And a ground buss bar and power buss bar. And an in line 100 amp breaker on the main feed.
But first I’ll probably have to buy an exhaust system.
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It’s actually a big space to be wasting. I’m adding two fuse boxes. And a ground buss bar and power buss bar. And an in line 100 amp breaker on the main feed.
But first I’ll probably have to buy an exhaust system.
There are small houses with 100 amp service, are you putting in an electric air conditioner along with a washer and dryer?
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Now put all that on the driver side like in our SS and you’ll know why I want to use the other side for extra fuse boxes and wires.
I’m running one fat wire from the battery ..with one big hot buss ..not going through all the hassle ....each heated piece of gear needs a hot wire and a ground...that’s 4 hot wires they want you connect to the battery. My air horn wants a hot wire to be hooked to the battery. Aux fuse box wants a hot wire hooked to the battery..then you have all the grounds....there are more I can’t even remember now...
Trying to make it as neat and uncluttered as possible...6-7-8 hot wires running to the battery isn’t neat and uncluttered. The battery terminal isn’t that big...the bolt would need to be a foot long...
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why do you need two fuse boxes what are you trying to accomplish in your sling?
If anyone reaches the point when they need two fuse boxes they should be switching to something else that will cost less and in my opinion be better than the fuseboxes "sold for slings".
Here is the fuse block I would go for if i needed more circuits , just need to add a relay to make it a switched power box but even after that you are coming in at about half the price of one of the two boxes you are looking to buy.
Btw this is a marine fuse box for those that don't know so perfect for the sling.
ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems
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There are small houses with 100 amp service, are you putting in an electric air conditioner along with a washer and dryer?
100 amps at 120 volts is 12,000 watts . a 100 amps at 12 volts is only 1,200 watts. The lower voltage in a car requires more amps to do the same work as the higher voltage in a home